Heady Versions

Brand Histories
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The two houses Heady Versions authenticates have shaped the aloha shirt for the better part of a century. Below is each brand’s story, its ownership chain, and a visual tag timeline — the neck labels that let you date a shirt from a photo.

Reyn Spooner

Honolulu · brand established 1961–62 · roots to 1949

Reyn Spooner is the product of two separate Hawaii businesses that merged. In 1949, Reyn McCullough bought his employer’s men’s shop in Avalon on Catalina Island and renamed it Reyn’s Men’s Wear, selling traditional resort menswear rather than bright prints. In 1956, seamstress Ruth Spooner opened Spooner’s of Waikiki, known for custom surf trunks sewn on a single machine.

McCullough moved to Honolulu and, in 1959, opened one of the first shops in the newly built Ala Moana Shopping Center. He and Ruth Spooner combined their two names to create Reyn Spooner. In 1964 the company introduced Spooner Kloth — combed cotton blended with wrinkle-free spun polyester, “the oxford cloth of the islands” — and adopted its signature reverse print, the muted look of a shirt printed inside-out, reportedly inspired by a local bartender-surfer’s inside-out aloha shirt.

Much of what collectors prize about Reyn Spooner comes from its partnerships. As early as the 1960s Reyn McCullough won rare permission to print legendary textile master Alfred Shaheen’s designs; in 1983 Tim McCullough launched the annual Mele Kalikimaka Hawaiian Christmas shirt that fans have collected ever since; and over the decades the brand built long artist relationships with Big Island linocut printmaker Dietrich Varez and gyotaku (fish-print) artist Naoki Hayashi. Those lines are detailed below.

Tag timeline

Match the neck label in a listing photo to place the shirt in a range.

Reyn Spooner 1949 – 1955 label
1949 – 1955
“Reyn’s Mens Wear · Santa Catalina Island”
Pre-Hawaii mainland era — traditional menswear label from the original Catalina Island shop, before any aloha prints.
  • 1949 — Reyn McCullough buys his employer’s men’s shop in Avalon, Catalina Island, and renames it Reyn’s Men’s Wear.
  • 1949–55 — sold “exceptional men’s resort clothing,” not aloha prints.
Reyn Spooner 1956 – 1963 label
1956 – 1963
Red devil mascot · “Since 1956”
Earliest Hawaiian era, after the move to Ala Moana. Small red devil mascot; before Spooner Kloth.
  • 1956 — Ruth Spooner opens Spooner’s of Waikiki, making custom surf trunks on one sewing machine.
  • 1957 — McCullough first visits Hawaii.
  • 1959 — opens at the new Ala Moana Shopping Center, one of its first tenants.
  • 1961–62 — the two businesses merge; the Reyn Spooner name is born (four sewing machines in the store basement).
Reyn Spooner 1964 – 1984 label
1964 – 1984
White woven label · lowercase logo
Spooner Kloth era begins. Muted reverse prints; the classic white woven neck label with the lowercase wordmark.
  • 1964 — Spooner Kloth introduced (combed cotton + wrinkle-free spun polyester); signature reverse print adopted.
  • early 1960s — Reyn McCullough wins rare permission to use Alfred Shaheen’s exclusive textile prints (see Collaborations).
  • 1974 — begins international shipping to Japan, Australia, and Canada.
  • 1983 — Tim McCullough launches the first Hawaiian Christmas shirt — the Mele Kalikimaka line (see Collaborations).
  • 1984 — Vans collaboration; founder Reynolds McCullough dies and his son Tim continues the business.
Reyn Spooner ~1980s label
~1980s
Diamond Head scenic label · lowercase logo
Woven Diamond Head / Waikiki scenic vignette above the green lowercase “reyn spooner · Hawaiian Traditionals” logo, with a “100% Cotton · Tailored in Hawaii of Imported Fabric” care tag. A photographed real-world example of the lowercase-logo era in its 1980s scenic-label form.
  • The scenic Diamond Head woven patch and “Tailored in Hawaii of Imported Fabric” wording are 1980s markers.
  • This is the Mele Kalikimaka / Dietrich Varez era — most vintage artist-collab shirts you’ll find carry a lowercase-logo label like this.
Reyn Spooner 1985 – 1989 label
1985 – 1989
Bold wordmark · blue wave/palm badge
Bolder brand mark paired with a blue wave-and-palm badge.
  • Era of the “Brooks Brothers of the Pacific” reputation; the brand would go on to create 2,000+ hand-painted print patterns.
Reyn Spooner 1990 – 2009 label
1990 – 2009
Circular hula-figure crest
Circular hula-figure (wahine) crest sitting beside the wordmark — a long-running label spanning the Wedbush-era lead-up.
  • 1996 — collaboration with Hawaii artist Eddy Y.; products begin selling in Japanese department stores.
  • 2008 — majority stake sold to Wedbush Capital Partners (Los Angeles) by longtime CEO Tim McCullough.
  • 2009 — Urban Outfitters slim-fit and Stüssy collaborations.
Reyn Spooner 2010 – 2015 label
2010 – 2015
Gold-framed rectangular label
Gold-framed rectangular woven label of the early corporate-ownership years.
  • 2011 — Opening Ceremony collaboration.
  • Jan 2015 — Aloha Brands LLC, led by chairman Charlie Baxter, acquires a controlling stake.
  • Aug 2015 — ITOCHU Corporation takes the exclusive Japan import/distribution and master license.
Reyn Spooner 2016 – 2017 label
2016 – 2017
Navy square patch · wahine + palm
Navy square patch with the wahine-and-palm circle.
  • 2017 — headquarters moves from Hawaii to a 6,000 sq ft building in Boyle Heights, Los Angeles; Lynne Koplin named CEO, Doug Burkman creative director. The art studio and print archive stay in Hawaii.
Reyn Spooner 2018 – 2019 label
2018 – 2019
Minimalist “REYN ⧓ SPOONER”
Stripped-back all-caps wordmark.
  • Rolling collaboration with Major League Baseball (MLB) runs through this era.
Reyn Spooner 2020 – present label
2020 – present
Current script logo · “Est. 1956” crest
Current script logo with the “Est. 1956” crest.
  • 2020 — new logo drawing on the classic Wahine mark and the original Reyn’s script.
Dating note: Reyn Spooner’s own materials disagree by a year on the merger — the current “Our Story” page says the name was born in 1961, an earlier company blog says 1962. Both are primary sources, so “1961–62” is the honest answer. For tag dating, the anchor is the fabric and print lineage: Spooner Kloth and the reverse print both date to 1964.

Ownership chain: McCullough family (1949–2008) → Wedbush Capital Partners (2008) → Aloha Brands / Charlie Baxter (2015–present). ITOCHU has held the separate Japan master license since Aug 2015; HQ moved from Hawaii to Los Angeles in 2017.

Collaborations & signature lines

The artist series and special lines that collectors chase.

Mele Kalikimaka Reyn Spooner label
“Mele Kalikimaka · Limited Issue” label
Mele Kalikimaka — the Hawaiian Christmas shirt 1983 – present

Reyn Spooner’s most beloved tradition. In 1983, Tim McCullough noticed men had no festive aloha wear at a holiday conference and designed the first Hawaiian Christmas shirt. It became an annual, limited-edition collectible — a new print every year that fans collect like stamps, each tagged “Limited Issue.” Early designs used traditional Christmas borders; the “Mele Kalikimaka” greeting (Hawaiian for “Merry Christmas”) has been worked into the prints since 1992, often hidden treasure-hunt style alongside a recurring Christmas nēnē goose. The 2023 release marked the line’s 40th anniversary.

Alfred Shaheen by Reyn Spooner label
“alfred Shaheen by reyn spooner” co-brand label
Alfred Shaheen early 1960s origin · modern reissues

Alfred Shaheen was Hawaii’s most influential textile printer and garment manufacturer of the 1950s–60s, running the islands’ most complete in-house printing operation. In the early 1960s Reyn McCullough persuaded Shaheen — who rarely licensed his exclusive South-Pacific prints — to let Reyn Spooner use them, impressed by Reyn’s quality. The “Alfred Shaheen by Reyn Spooner” line reinterprets those original 1950s–60s Shaheen textile designs on Reyn Spooner shirts (this co-brand label reads “Textile Design Copyrighted”).

Dietrich Varez Collection by Reyn Spooner label
“Dietrich Varez Collection by Reyn Spooner” label
Dietrich Varez ~30-year partnership

Dietrich Varez (d. 2018) was a self-taught Big Island printmaker known for bold linocut / block prints of Hawaiian myth, legend, and daily life. His roughly three-decade partnership with Reyn Spooner turned that folk-art style into collectible aloha shirts — prints like Sashimi Maru, Manō, Knee Body Boogie, and Pua‘a — and continued with archival releases after his passing. The label carries his own hand-lettered signature.

Gyotaku by Naoki for Reyn Spooner label
Vintage “Gyotaku by Naoki for Reyn Spooner” label — the fish is printed into the tag
Gyotaku by Naoki vintage → present

Naoki Hayashi is a Hawaii-based artist who has practiced gyotaku — the centuries-old Japanese art of printing directly from a real fish onto paper — since age 11. A diver and fisherman, he uses non-toxic acrylics and prints only from fish that will be eaten. The partnership goes back decades: this vintage “Gyotaku by Naoki for Reyn Spooner” label (60/40 cotton-poly, “Designed in Hawaii, Tailored in Korea,” with the artist’s red chop seal) has an actual fish print woven into the tag. Reyn Spooner revived the line again in 2026 on Spooner Kloth — designs such as Oio (Hawaiian bonefish), Mahi, Sailfish, Marlin, and Hanauma Bay — with live fish-printing demos at the Ala Moana store.

And others

Reyn Spooner has also worked with Vans (1984), Hawaii artist Eddy Y. (1996), Opening Ceremony (2011), The Beach Boys, and runs a long-standing Major League Baseball series. One to keep straight: the celebrated John Severson surf-art aloha shirts — from the founder of Surfer magazine — are a Kahala collaboration, not Reyn Spooner (see below).

Kahala

Honolulu · founded 1936 · oldest operating apparel company in Hawai‘i

Kahala is the oldest aloha-shirt maker still in business, founded in Honolulu in 1936 by George Brangier and Nat Norfleet as Branfleet — a portmanteau of their surnames — using “Kahala,” after the Honolulu neighborhood, as its label. Branfleet was one of the first Hawaii makers to move from tailor-made shirts to factory manufacturing, letting it wholesale and export at scale. Swimming legend Duke Kahanamoku was tied to the company as a fashion consultant from the mid-1930s to 1943, and again from 1961.

The official company name became Kahala in 1951. Kahala shirts appeared in the 1953 film From Here to Eternity, and in 1960 the company introduced its “Duke’s Pareo” reverse print. Designer Dale Hope acquired the label in 1986; it later passed to Local Motion, and in 2006 Tori Richard bought Kahala, took it “dark” for about nine months, then relaunched it with vintage reissues. Kahala’s shirts are screen-printed on 100% rayon.

Kahala is also known for its artist collaborations. Since the 1990s it has produced the surf art of John Severson — founder of Surfer magazine, and a collaboration frequently (and wrongly) credited to Reyn Spooner — and through 2002 it ran the vivid Hawaiiana line of Avi Kiriaty (the “Avi Collection” in the tag timeline). Both are covered below.

Tag timeline

Design-based ranges — Kahala never published a year-by-year logo history, so these are decade-scale. research-dated entries were pinned down in deep research; two earliest photos are still being sourced.

Kahala 1936 – early 1950s label
1936 – early 1950s earliest era
“THE KAHALA · Made in Honolulu” (block letters)
Red woven label, “THE KAHALA” in white block letters over “MADE IN HONOLULU,” blue border stitching — the oldest style. This example is paired with a “Bullock & Jones · San Francisco” retailer label, evidence of early Kahala distribution to upscale mainland stores. A tag literally reading “Branfleet” is the definitive 1936–1951 marker; this block-letter Honolulu label stands in for the earliest era.
  • 1936 — founded in Honolulu by George Brangier & Nat Norfleet as Branfleet (a portmanteau of their names), using “Kahala” as its label.
  • One of the first Hawaii makers to switch from tailor-made shirts to factory manufacturing, enabling wholesale and export.
  • Co-branded with Bullock & Jones of San Francisco (a menswear retailer dating to 1853) — an early mainland stockist of the shirts.
  • mid-1930s–1943 — Duke Kahanamoku serves as a fashion consultant to the company.
Kahala late 1950s – 1960s label
late 1950s – 1960s firm
“The Kahala · Made in Honolulu” (script + palm)
Cream woven label: “The Kahala” in red cursive script beside a single black palm tree, “MADE IN HONOLULU” lower right. “Made in Honolulu” is generally a pre-/early-statehood marker.
  • 1951 — the company’s official name is changed to Kahala (the label had been used since 1936).
  • 1953 — Kahala shirts appear in the film From Here to Eternity.
  • 1960 — the iconic “Duke’s Pareo” reverse print is introduced.
  • 1961 — Duke Kahanamoku re-associates with the brand.
Kahala ~1987 – 1990 label
~1987 – 1990 research-dated
“Kahala · By HRH · Hawaii”
Woven label: a row of tan palm trees, “Kahala” in teal brush script with ™, “By HRH” lower left, “Hawaii” lower right. “By HRH” = Dale Hope’s label (after his father Howard Robert Hope). This exact tag existed only between Hope acquiring the name and the 1990 Local Motion sale.
  • 1986 — designer Dale Hope acquires the Kahala label and becomes its art director.
Kahala ~1990 – 1996 label
~1990 – 1996 research-dated
“Kahala · Hawaiian Islands” woven wordmark
Cream woven label: “Kahala” in the teal brush script (® mark) over “HAWAIIAN ISLANDS,” with a separate “80% Cotton / 20% Polyester · Handcrafted in Hawaii” care tag. The direct successor to the “By HRH” tag — same script, but Hope’s personal line is dropped for “Hawaiian Islands.”
  • Successor to the “By HRH” label after the ~1990 Local Motion sale; the teal brush-script wordmark carries over.
  • Cotton-poly blend and “Handcrafted in Hawaii” mark it as a Hawaii-made piece of the early Local Motion era.
Kahala ~1990 – mid-1990s label
~1990 – mid-1990s research-dated
Dale Hope scenic label
Printed scenic vignette (outrigger sailing canoe + palm + ocean) over “KAHALA® · Hawaiian Islands,” with a “100% Cotton · Handcrafted in Hawaii” care tag. The artier, printed sibling of the woven wordmark above.
  • The Dale Hope / early Local Motion Hawaii-made era, refined to ~1990 – mid-1990s: the scenic “Handcrafted in Hawaii” 100% cotton tags disappear once Local Motion moved production offshore later in the decade.
Kahala ~1990s – 2002 label
~1990s – 2002 research-dated
Avi Collection
Woven label: colorful blocky “AVi” over “COLLECTION BY · KAHALA® · HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.” The Avi Kiriaty artist line; per Avi’s own site it ran through 2002.
  • The Avi Kiriaty artist collaboration runs through 2002 (start year unconfirmed).
Kahala ~2000s label
~2000s research-dated
Gold “KAHALA · Hawaiian Islands” scenic wordmark
Cream woven label: a woven sailing-canoe scenic vignette above the gold serif “KAHALA®” wordmark and “HAWAIIAN ISLANDS,” with a “100% Cotton Lawn · Handcrafted in Malaysia” care tag. The offshore-production era — the bridge between the Hawaii-made 1990s labels and the 2010s heritage branding.
  • “Handcrafted in Malaysia” marks the shift offshore — Hawaii-made tags give way to imported production in the 2000s.
  • Spans the late Local Motion years into the early Tori Richard era (Tori Richard bought Kahala in 2006).
Kahala 2010 – 2020 label
2010 – 2020 firm
“KAHALA · 1936” heritage label
Dark olive/brown woven label, “KAHALA” serif wordmark with the founding year “1936.” Modern heritage branding; some offshore production alongside Hawaii-made lines.
  • 2006 — Tori Richard (CEO Josh Feldman) buys Kahala from Local Motion, then takes it “dark” for ~9 months.
  • Relaunched with a concept store in the Nordstrom wing of Ala Moana Center and vintage reissues such as the 1950s “Miro.”
  • This “1936” heritage branding is the identity of that Tori Richard relaunch era.
Kahala 2020 – present label
2020 – present current
Current logo
Cream woven label: “Kahala” in red cursive script beside a red palm tree, “The Original Aloha Shirt Since 1936®” underneath.
  • Kahala remains the oldest continuously operating apparel company in Hawai‘i.
Dating note: Because Kahala changed its corporate name (Branfleet → Kahala, 1951) and passed through Dale Hope, Local Motion, and Tori Richard, its tags shifted several times. A label reading “Branfleet” is the definitive earliest marker; the 1936 founding and “oldest in Hawai‘i” claim are among the best-corroborated facts in either brand’s history.

Ownership chain: Brangier & Norfleet / Branfleet (1936) → Dale Hope (1986) → Local Motion → Tori Richard (2006–present).

Collaborations & signature lines

Kahala’s best-known artist series.

John Severson Collection by Kahala label
“John Severson Collection by Kahala” label — 100% rayon, Handcrafted in Hawaii
John Severson 1990s – present

John Severson (1933–2017) was a legendary surf artist, filmmaker, and the founder of Surfer magazine. Beginning in the 1990s, his paintings — from soft moonlit lineups to bold, barreling swells — began appearing on Kahala aloha shirts, and the partnership continues with his wife Louise and daughter Anna helping select designs (recent prints include Makaha Set). The woven label carries his red-script signature over a surfer-on-the-beach scene. This is the collaboration people often misattribute to Reyn Spooner — it’s Kahala’s.

Avi Collection by Kahala label
“Avi Collection by Kahala” label
Avi Kiriaty ~1990s – 2002

Avi Kiriaty (b. Israel, 1957) grew up captivated by Polynesia through the paintings of Paul Gauguin and the writings of Pierre Loti. He moved to Hawai‘i in 1979, settling first on Kaua‘i and later on the Big Island — farming and fishing on the Hāmākua coast and painting in the Puna rainforest — before basing himself on Maui. Working in oils, linoleum block prints, sculpture, and serigraphy, he built a style critics tie to Gauguin and muralist Jean Charlot: “passionate primitivism,” bold outlines, and saturated pinks, greens, and blues.

His subjects — fishermen hauling nets, canoe paddlers, surfers, and kāne and wāhine at work pounding poi or stringing lei — made him a natural fit for Kahala. Through roughly 2002, the Avi Collection (also sold as the Avi Kiriaty Artist Series) translated those paintings into aloha shirts, including reverse-print versions, and it remains one of Kahala’s most collectible and recognizable artist lines. His folk-art figuration helped define the brand’s 1990s identity as an art-forward maker rather than just a floral-shirt label. The same tag anchors the ~1990s–2002 slot in the timeline above.

Sources

Compiled by Heady Versions. Where sources disagree (e.g. the 1961 vs 1962 merger year), both are shown rather than forcing one date. 🤙