The two houses Heady Versions authenticates have shaped the aloha shirt for the better part of a century. Below is each brand’s story, its ownership chain, and a visual tag timeline — the neck labels that let you date a shirt from a photo.
Reyn Spooner is the product of two separate Hawaii businesses that merged. In 1949, Reyn McCullough bought his employer’s men’s shop in Avalon on Catalina Island and renamed it Reyn’s Men’s Wear, selling traditional resort menswear rather than bright prints. In 1956, seamstress Ruth Spooner opened Spooner’s of Waikiki, known for custom surf trunks sewn on a single machine.
McCullough moved to Honolulu and, in 1959, opened one of the first shops in the newly built Ala Moana Shopping Center. He and Ruth Spooner combined their two names to create Reyn Spooner. In 1964 the company introduced Spooner Kloth — combed cotton blended with wrinkle-free spun polyester, “the oxford cloth of the islands” — and adopted its signature reverse print, the muted look of a shirt printed inside-out, reportedly inspired by a local bartender-surfer’s inside-out aloha shirt.
Much of what collectors prize about Reyn Spooner comes from its partnerships. As early as the 1960s Reyn McCullough won rare permission to print legendary textile master Alfred Shaheen’s designs; in 1983 Tim McCullough launched the annual Mele Kalikimaka Hawaiian Christmas shirt that fans have collected ever since; and over the decades the brand built long artist relationships with Big Island linocut printmaker Dietrich Varez and gyotaku (fish-print) artist Naoki Hayashi. Those lines are detailed below.
Match the neck label in a listing photo to place the shirt in a range.
Ownership chain: McCullough family (1949–2008) → Wedbush Capital Partners (2008) → Aloha Brands / Charlie Baxter (2015–present). ITOCHU has held the separate Japan master license since Aug 2015; HQ moved from Hawaii to Los Angeles in 2017.
The artist series and special lines that collectors chase.
Reyn Spooner’s most beloved tradition. In 1983, Tim McCullough noticed men had no festive aloha wear at a holiday conference and designed the first Hawaiian Christmas shirt. It became an annual, limited-edition collectible — a new print every year that fans collect like stamps, each tagged “Limited Issue.” Early designs used traditional Christmas borders; the “Mele Kalikimaka” greeting (Hawaiian for “Merry Christmas”) has been worked into the prints since 1992, often hidden treasure-hunt style alongside a recurring Christmas nēnē goose. The 2023 release marked the line’s 40th anniversary.
Alfred Shaheen was Hawaii’s most influential textile printer and garment manufacturer of the 1950s–60s, running the islands’ most complete in-house printing operation. In the early 1960s Reyn McCullough persuaded Shaheen — who rarely licensed his exclusive South-Pacific prints — to let Reyn Spooner use them, impressed by Reyn’s quality. The “Alfred Shaheen by Reyn Spooner” line reinterprets those original 1950s–60s Shaheen textile designs on Reyn Spooner shirts (this co-brand label reads “Textile Design Copyrighted”).
Dietrich Varez (d. 2018) was a self-taught Big Island printmaker known for bold linocut / block prints of Hawaiian myth, legend, and daily life. His roughly three-decade partnership with Reyn Spooner turned that folk-art style into collectible aloha shirts — prints like Sashimi Maru, Manō, Knee Body Boogie, and Pua‘a — and continued with archival releases after his passing. The label carries his own hand-lettered signature.
Naoki Hayashi is a Hawaii-based artist who has practiced gyotaku — the centuries-old Japanese art of printing directly from a real fish onto paper — since age 11. A diver and fisherman, he uses non-toxic acrylics and prints only from fish that will be eaten. The partnership goes back decades: this vintage “Gyotaku by Naoki for Reyn Spooner” label (60/40 cotton-poly, “Designed in Hawaii, Tailored in Korea,” with the artist’s red chop seal) has an actual fish print woven into the tag. Reyn Spooner revived the line again in 2026 on Spooner Kloth — designs such as Oio (Hawaiian bonefish), Mahi, Sailfish, Marlin, and Hanauma Bay — with live fish-printing demos at the Ala Moana store.
Reyn Spooner has also worked with Vans (1984), Hawaii artist Eddy Y. (1996), Opening Ceremony (2011), The Beach Boys, and runs a long-standing Major League Baseball series. One to keep straight: the celebrated John Severson surf-art aloha shirts — from the founder of Surfer magazine — are a Kahala collaboration, not Reyn Spooner (see below).
Kahala is the oldest aloha-shirt maker still in business, founded in Honolulu in 1936 by George Brangier and Nat Norfleet as Branfleet — a portmanteau of their surnames — using “Kahala,” after the Honolulu neighborhood, as its label. Branfleet was one of the first Hawaii makers to move from tailor-made shirts to factory manufacturing, letting it wholesale and export at scale. Swimming legend Duke Kahanamoku was tied to the company as a fashion consultant from the mid-1930s to 1943, and again from 1961.
The official company name became Kahala in 1951. Kahala shirts appeared in the 1953 film From Here to Eternity, and in 1960 the company introduced its “Duke’s Pareo” reverse print. Designer Dale Hope acquired the label in 1986; it later passed to Local Motion, and in 2006 Tori Richard bought Kahala, took it “dark” for about nine months, then relaunched it with vintage reissues. Kahala’s shirts are screen-printed on 100% rayon.
Kahala is also known for its artist collaborations. Since the 1990s it has produced the surf art of John Severson — founder of Surfer magazine, and a collaboration frequently (and wrongly) credited to Reyn Spooner — and through 2002 it ran the vivid Hawaiiana line of Avi Kiriaty (the “Avi Collection” in the tag timeline). Both are covered below.
Design-based ranges — Kahala never published a year-by-year logo history, so these are decade-scale. research-dated entries were pinned down in deep research; two earliest photos are still being sourced.
Ownership chain: Brangier & Norfleet / Branfleet (1936) → Dale Hope (1986) → Local Motion → Tori Richard (2006–present).
Kahala’s best-known artist series.
John Severson (1933–2017) was a legendary surf artist, filmmaker, and the founder of Surfer magazine. Beginning in the 1990s, his paintings — from soft moonlit lineups to bold, barreling swells — began appearing on Kahala aloha shirts, and the partnership continues with his wife Louise and daughter Anna helping select designs (recent prints include Makaha Set). The woven label carries his red-script signature over a surfer-on-the-beach scene. This is the collaboration people often misattribute to Reyn Spooner — it’s Kahala’s.
Avi Kiriaty (b. Israel, 1957) grew up captivated by Polynesia through the paintings of Paul Gauguin and the writings of Pierre Loti. He moved to Hawai‘i in 1979, settling first on Kaua‘i and later on the Big Island — farming and fishing on the Hāmākua coast and painting in the Puna rainforest — before basing himself on Maui. Working in oils, linoleum block prints, sculpture, and serigraphy, he built a style critics tie to Gauguin and muralist Jean Charlot: “passionate primitivism,” bold outlines, and saturated pinks, greens, and blues.
His subjects — fishermen hauling nets, canoe paddlers, surfers, and kāne and wāhine at work pounding poi or stringing lei — made him a natural fit for Kahala. Through roughly 2002, the Avi Collection (also sold as the Avi Kiriaty Artist Series) translated those paintings into aloha shirts, including reverse-print versions, and it remains one of Kahala’s most collectible and recognizable artist lines. His folk-art figuration helped define the brand’s 1990s identity as an art-forward maker rather than just a floral-shirt label. The same tag anchors the ~1990s–2002 slot in the timeline above.
Compiled by Heady Versions. Where sources disagree (e.g. the 1961 vs 1962 merger year), both are shown rather than forcing one date. 🤙